Bark Canoe Store
15 East Sinto
Spokane, WA 99202
1111 West 10th Avenue
Spokane, WA 99204
(office voice & fax)
Copyright (c) 2007
All Rights Reserved
IN THIS ISSUE
- Birchbark Canoes in new Bass Pro Shops
- Collecting Root
2. Tech Tip - More on Miniatures from Ted Behne,
Birchbark Canoes in new Bass Pro Shops
3 1/2 years ago I was contacted by an antique dealer who supplies The Bass Pro Shops with decor for all of their new stores.
He told me a birchbark canoe would be in every store. I sold him several from some of you and I also
provided him with a number of my own. These canoes are now hanging in one of these stores.
Bass Pro Shop Portage, Indiana
While driving back from Toronto I spotted a new store in Portage, Indiana. They are huge - very much like a Cabelas
except this one had a northwoods feel. Right above the front door was a birchbark canoe. And to my
surprise it was one that I had built.
If you have not been to one of these stores and you get a chance they are quite fun. If you do go and have a digital
camera and you see a birchbark canoe could you please take a picture and e-mail it to me? I will create a
web page with such photos so that others can view and enjoy them.
The idea that you have to head to the far north to get root is not always the case. On my recent trip east I planned to get
more root. While driving across Wisconsin - through rolling farm land - I noticed rows of spruce planted apparently as wind
breaks. We stopped at one such spot and gathered a bunch of root in little time. There were no competing root systems.
As we continued we came to another area, most likely planted for timber once upon a time. They weren't in even rows like most
tree farms but what a bounty! This opened my eyes. We then spotted spruce that might have been suitable as far west as
the Dakotas. Same deal - wind breaks. As long as there hasn't been heavy ground work done in the area you should be OK.
So if you need root look for spruce wind breaks that were planted 20 years ago or so. Good luck.
Building Tip - More on Miniatures by Ted Behne
Setting the Sheerline
This article continues the assembly process by setting the sheerline of the canoe. The sheerline is the height of the
gunwale above the baseline of a canoe. It is lowest at the center of the canoe and gradually rises toward the ends,
sometimes rising sharply between the end thwarts and the stems. Properly setting the sheerline is one of the most
important steps in the assembly process because it determines not only the final look of the canoe, but also its
structural integrity. The sheerline is formed by the inwales and outwales, with the bark locked in place between
them by both hardwood pegs and spruce-root lashings.
Assembly constitutes about 50 percent of the work in making a canoe, so at this point you are about half way home.
Previous articles outlined other basic steps. These include: Selecting a canoe to model; making a quarter-scale
"blueprint"; constructing a reusable building platform; making a gunwale frame; making and installing thwarts; making
ribs; splitting cedar; splitting spruce roots for lashings; making sheathing to line the interior of the hull; and
unrolling and raising the bark. To review previous articles, go to www.barkcanoe.com/home.htm. Then select "Tips,"
then "Building Miniature Canoes."
Carefully remove the gunwale frame from the bark enclosure. Insert the two halves of the plywood building frame into
the rough canoe shape, being careful to center each half and not to disturb the position of the bark.
Next, attach sheering posts under each thwart of the inwale frame. Sheering posts determine the amount of gunwale rise
from the canoe center to each end. Sheering posts can best be held in place by running a small screw through one of the
lashing holes at the ends of each thwart and into a pre-drilled hole in the top of each sheering post below. Check the
blueprint for the size, number and placement of lashing holes in each thwart. Each sheering post will need to be reduced
in height by the thickness of the building frame, i.e., 1/8" if the building frame is made of 1/8" plywood.
Reposition the inwale frame, with sheering posts attached, inside the bark enclosure, being careful to center the frame
both widthwise and lengthwise. Cover the inwale frame with plywood planks to support the brick weights and to protect
the inwale frame while the sheerline is being set.
Trim the excess height of the bark, using scissors or a razor knife, to an inch above the gunwale frame between the end
thwarts, but not beyond the end thwarts.
Next, add the outwales to form the inwale/bark/outwale sandwich that constitutes the gunwales of the canoe. Center the
outwales on the centerline of the center thwart and line them up at the same height as the inwale. Clamp them in place
at regular intervals with clothespins.
Beginning at the center of the canoe and working outward toward each end pull the gores upward to form a smooth surface,
with no bulges or gaps in the hull. Where the gores overlap, one side will be vertical and the other angled. With a
pencil, transfer the vertical line of each gore onto the angled side and then carefully trim away the excess angled
side so that both sides join in a vertical seam. These seams will later be sealed with spruce gum to waterproof them.
With all the sheering posts in place, replace the plywood support sections and then replace the weights to hold the
now-sheered inwale frame in its permanent position. The inwale frame is now held at the proper height to begin
pegging and lashing.
In the next newsletter, we will lock the inwales, bark and outwales together with hardwood pegs and begin lashing
together the entire gunwale assembly with split spruce roots.
If you have questions about any of the above, just send an email to email@example.com.
You can view Ted's work here.
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