TECH TIPS PAGE TWENTY FIVE
If you have questions about any of the above, just send an email to
tedbehne@comcast.net.
509-327-7902 voice
509-327-7989 facsimile
barkcanoe@earthlink.net e-mail
Home
Canoes
Classes
Materials
Accessories
News and Stuff
Links
Consignment Canoes
Building Tip - More on Miniatures by Ted Behne
Unrolling and Raising the Bark
This article outlines the process for setting up the bark and beginning the process of assembly. The assembly process
constitutes about 50 percent of the work in making a canoe, so at this point you are about half way home. Previous
articles outlined other basic steps: Selecting a canoe to model; making a quarter-scale "blueprint"; constructing a
reusable building platform; making a gunwale frame; making and installing thwarts; making ribs, splitting cedar, splitting
spruce roots for lashings and making sheathing to line the interior of the hull. To review previous articles, go to
www.barkcanoe.com/tips.htm. Scroll down to see the tips on "Building Miniature Canoes."
Begin by laying out the gunwale frame onto the ¾" thick or more building platform. Center the frame using centerlines on
both the thwarts and the platform. Place heavy weights (I find that bricks work nicely) on the thwarts to hold the frame
in place. Use a felt-tip marker pen to draw the outline of the frame onto the platform. Next, mark positions for stake
holes every two to three inches along the outer edges of the frame outline, being careful to avoid positioning stakes and
thwarts together. At each end of the gunwale frame, mark positions for three pairs of stakes, each pair extending an inch
or so farther from the gunwale frame tip, tightly spaced on opposite sides of the centerline.
Next, remove the bricks and the gunwale frame. Using a 7/16" drill bit, drill vertical stake holes to a depth of
about ½", being careful not to drill through the platform. To ensure uniform depth, attach a strip of masking tape
to your drill bit, ½" up from the tip.
Cut enough 3/8" diameter dowels to fill all the stake holes, noting that the dowels in the center will be shorter than the
ones at the ends. The height of each dowel must be at least an inch above the gunwale line of the canoe. Test fit all
dowels. Re-drill any holes that bind. Remove the stakes and set them aside in like-size groups, held together with rubber
bands.
Next, make wooden support planks for the bricks that will hold the gunwale frame in place during construction. Using the
gunwale frame as a template, trace the outline of the frame onto a piece of ¼" plywood. Cut out the outline, then cut it
into smaller sections spanning from gunwale to gunwale.
Now it is time to roll out the bark. To make the bark friendly and pliable, apply very hot water to the roll, saturating
all surfaces, inside and out. I boil water and pour it onto and into the bark roll while it is standing upright in a sink.
The hot water warms the natural resins in the bark, making it temporarily pliable, minimizing the danger of splitting or
cracking. Carefully unroll the warmed bark onto the building platform, white side up. Mark the centerline at both ends,
then draw a line connecting the two ends. Trim the length of the bark to make it no more than three inches longer than
the gunwale frame at each end. Line up the centerline of the bark with the centerline of the building platform. Next,
lay the gunwale frame onto the bark, lining up the centerlines of the bark and the frame tips. Place wooden support planks
onto the gunwales, making sure they are well supported by the gunwales at each side. Put bricks or other heavy weights
onto the support planks to hold the gunwales and the bark firmly in place.
Next, we will cut gores in the bark, lift the sides of the bark to form a rough canoe shape, trim the gores to create a
smooth, fair hull and crimp the bark at the ends to form the bows. That process will be described in next month's
newsletter.
You can view Ted's work here.