TECH TIPS PAGE TWENTY EIGHT

Building Tip - Questions and Answers
by John Lindman

These are questions put forth recently from someone who is about to make his own canoe simply from his own self study.

1. Question:
I was wondering how to finished the end of a lashing so it will not come loose. Answer:
Several ways. The way I do it the most is to slide it under the lashing at the top. I bring the root through the bark to the inside of the canoe, up the inside of the gunwale, snug it up and then flib the tip over on its belly and slide the root under the lashing between the inside and outside gunwales. Pull it all the way through and trim it off at the other end. When pulled shug everything should be nice and flush.

2. Question:
Also, your measurements for the Algonkin oldstyle are different than Adney's, is there any reason for that?
Answer:
I don't go by Adney's measurements on any of my canoes. I use them as guides and of course greatly respect them but as you can see one tribe or builder will do it one way and another will do it another way. His canoe measurements were based on canoes he studied. I have my own opinions on what I like and what I don't like. For example I like the shape of the Ojibwe Longnose canoe but most were very deep and very wide and I prefer a hull shape more like the Abenaki so I will combine what I like from one style and add it to what I like of another style. For me it produces an even better canoe. Remember, the longnose canoe style was not originally an Ojibwe style. It was Dacotah. The Ojibwe said, "This is pretty hot," so adopted it. Styles were evolving so why not continue that. Still exact duplicates are important in Living History and for those who want that look. I totally respect that.

3. Question:
Also, I don't get the concept of height sticks, I realize their purpose is to set the height of the gunwales ( I think), but I don't think I have ever seen this done.
Answer:
Yes, that is their purpose. When looking at the canoe from the side, the profile given by the gunwales is call the "sheer", the profile given by the hull is called the "rocker". The height sticks determine the depth of the canoe and the sheer. The Algonquin once used their inwales as the building frame. Once everything was laid out and the gores cut and the bark folded up they would bring up the inwales and match them with the outwales. Now there would be no frame in the canoe. The height sticks would rest on the bark. I never did this. I always used a frame. The first canoe I made had a frame the same width as the inwales. So a 33" wide frame for a 34" beam. I never do that any more. If I want a 36" beam I use a 30" wide frame. This flares the side a bit. This doesn't determine the shape of the canoe, just makes it easier when inserting the bent ribs. In the tips section of the web site you will see the measurements for canoes. Mind you, if you have a frame as wide as the beam then the bottom of the canoe and the sides will form a right-angle. When you insert the newly bent ribs there will be all that space between this right angle of the bark and the curve of the rib. To get the bark snug up against the ribs you will have to pull up the sides to close-up the gap in the right angle. This will raise the gunwales about 3 inches. To determine the final depth of your canoe you must consider the thickness of the frame, the height stick on which the inwale will rest, the height of the inwale, the thickness of the cap and how much gap will have to be closed between the bent ribs and the angle formed between the bottom and side of the bark. Lots to think about when determining height sticks. This is why I put the measurements in the tips-section.

Next Page

509-327-7902 voice and fax        barkcanoe@earthlink.net e-mail